Berlin Day 1 - 8/24

Well, I'm here in Berlin and I can't quite believe I am finally somewhere in Europe!! 

I slept a few hours on the plane and then again for an hour or so when I got into the room.  After the performance that I am seeing tonight, I will get a full night's rest in these comfy beds.  The hotel is great, small but perfect and new.  Its location cannot be beat.  I am extremely close to main stage for the dance festival and even closer to the river and U-bahn.  I don't even know how to explain how beautiful this neighborhood is so I will try to send you pictures.

When I got to the hotel at 10am, I couldn't check in so I wandered around the spree and figured a few things out.  The performance I'll be attending is south of here, so I'll take the train to get there and a cab to get back.  I'll look through one of my books to find a place to eat near it, so that I can have my first weiner schnitzel.

Oh, and I got tickets for two of the three shows that I was hoping for!!!!  So now I have 8 performances, and am looking at two more at a different venue.  Very exciting.  I will get my phone set up in the morning and send the number.

Much love,

Alicia

Berlin Day 2 - 8/25

I'm really trying to use a little of the language ("Das Bitte" = "that please"), but I am easily annoyed with myself and start speaking English.  They may not be able to tell I am a tourist when they first see me (I kind of fit in with my blond hair and no make-up) but once I do anything (get out my travel books, ask for the bill right when I'm done eating, smile) they know I'm an American tourist.  And honestly, they are nice enough anyway.  I just like those few moments that no one knows!!!

I wandered around an area called Alexander Platz and other parts of Mitte today.  Mostly the shopping parts!  I tried one more time to buy a pair of ballet flats that EVERYONE in Berlin is wearing, but for the hundredth time, they rubbed too much on the back of my heals.  Knowing this may happen, I had flip-flops in my bag.  Guess I am just a California girl.  My boot-cut jeans are also a dead give-away.

I saw another performance tonight.  This was actually not with the festival, but a local berlin artist.  It was great and very informative for my thesis!  They spoke alot and only in German, but I think I know what the piece was expressing.  Interesting to think about that.  Dance as a language that is not directly translatable in the same way that the German language is, for me, not translatable.     

That's it from Berlin...much love,

Alicia

Berlin Day 3 - 8/26

Hallo!

Another detailed daily update!  It is sort of a travel-log for me.  Please delete if you are not a fan of long travel emails.  Otherwise...

I got up late today (still recovering from jet-lag) and didn't get out the door until noon!  By then it had started raining.  Boo.  Well, for a rainy day, it turned out to be one of my most comfortable and interesting.  Not sure if that makes sense.  With my handy drugstore umbrella I wandered the street considered to be the "rodeo drive of Berlin", Ku'damm.  Just window shopping, I assure you, but pretending to buy things the entire time.

I wandered into the Kathe Kollwitz Museum for an hour somewhere in the middle of the excursion when the rain and the crowds were too much.  She was a famous artist at the turn of the century Berlin and lived through both world wars.  Her work was very socially conscience and well loved, but needless to say, very depressing.  As I left the museum, I knew I needed to get that sadness of Berlin's past out of my system...

So I went to the largest department store in Europe!  KaDeWe (Tracy, I'm sure you went there) is the hugest most luxurious store I've seen.  If you want it, its there.  All the leading designers have their own "store" on the zero floor.  Then you have your typical mens, womens, children...each on their own very large floors.  Then of course housewares where you can get curtains if you need them and I even found designer dog collars and china dog bowls on the 5th floor (sorry Rosie, none for you).  They have the most amazing china and crystal section I have ever seen, more stuffed animals than a child would know what to do with, and a lovely book store.  Finally I went to the sixth floor!!!  Talk about Luxury.  It is a gourmet market, but more than that...it combines the best market I've ever seen with the best cheese and wine shop with the best chocolate shop and then added many fancy food bars for the sipping of fine champagnes!!!  Okay, who's flying out to see me tomorrow?? 

I had to hurry back to the hotel and change my clothes to go see Meg Stuart's performance.  It was fantastic!  Very happy that I managed to get tickets because again I feel that it will inform my thesis.  This really is an educational trip.  I also (while ordering a prosecco at the concession area) overheard two people speaking English without German accents.  I had to say something!  So I made my first friends here.  Sarah and Martin, two dancers who live here and are both your typical dancers...a little scattered and self-centered, but ultimately really friendly.  We all saw a second (just mediocre) performance together and finally said good night.  

I then went next door to the oldest pub/restaurant in Berlin started by a farmer in 1621.  I was sat in the seat that is reserved for the regulars (you know that made me feel special) and I ate blood sausage with creamy sauerkraut.  Very good, but very filling.  I am happy to be back in the hotel now to rest my feet.  I am wearing myself out...I may need a break.  

Love you all and thanks for listening,

Alicia

ps - I'll work on getting pictures out in the morning.

Berlin Day 4 - 8/27

I think I am finally adjusting to the time change and relaxing into the fact that I am on the other side of the earth from my home.  I woke up this morning at 8am and decided to meditate for the first time in a week.  Boy, did I need that!  Afterward I thought I might run or grab an early breakfast and a latte and journal.  But no...instead I laid my head down and got the deepest and most relaxed sleep I've had since I've been here.  I woke up at noon!!!!

Feeling the pressure of housekeeping outside my door, I hurried to get myself together for the day.  Originally, I thought I'd do Museums today, but somehow that wasn't really working for me.  I decided to do the very touristy Brandenburg Gate.  So I figured out transport and headed out.  I was to take the U-Bahn to Potsdamer Platz and then switch to the S-Bahn (different train lines).  Well, when I got out of the tunnel at Potsdamer Platz (which is the "Tomorrowland" of Berlin!  Really) I figured I ought to find the Sony Center and take a picture. Then the Sony Center led me to the Berlin Philharmonic building (which is gorgeous, by the way).  Then right across the street was the Tiergarten (Berlin's version of Central Park only a real forest!!)...You see how this is going.  So, I just walked the rest of the way.  I must say, this city is REALLY easy to get around.  Maybe easier than NYC.  When you look at a map and think, "Oh, that's pretty close"; it really is pretty close.  So I walked for 2 hours and saw so many of the "must see" sights.  What strikes me the most about it is the fusion of past with present.  An old German-style building fused to a contemporary glass building.  This is a repeated motif everywhere.  Just another place the wars' impact shows itself on this city.  

So today I wandered into the Guggenheim and saw an exhibition that again has a direct relationship to my thesis.  I would think this is wacky, but I know better.  Things are just flowing to me right and left!  

Finally, I went to a lecture on dance and writing (again with the connections to my greatest interests) and then a massive performance by the dance artist Sasha Waltz (great name).  Elizabeth, have you ever heard of the theatre Schaubuehne?  The most amazingly beautiful and contemporary space I've ever seen work in.  And they used it very well!  

I love that I can share this with all of you in this strange way.  It is super fun for me.  I am thinking about all of you at various times throughout the day and look forward to sharing my experiences.

Much love,

Alicia

Berlin Day 5 - 8/28 (best day ever)

For the last two days I've awoken with the notion that somehow this excitement is going to slow down.  Each day cannot possibly live up to the last.  But each day I am taken aback by the surprises that await me.  I kind of sound like a Disneyland advertisement, but I'm serious!  

Today I managed to get out the door at 11am (kudos to me!!).  My plan was to head straight for the closest H&M store and have a nice leisurely shopping day.  H&M plaster large ads all over the city and somehow they've put me under their spell.  I am hooked.  Elizabeth, H&M is my new favorite store ever!  So I bought my trench coat for 29,99 euro and started to head up the street.  It reminded me of the upper east side of Manhattan with its Gucci and Hermes and Rolex.  Turns out that this IS what they call it...the upper east side (of Mitte).

As I finished my window shopping, I decided to take a little detour.  I started to feel a chilling wind blow (not kidding).  I was getting close to Checkpoint Charlie so I looked in my travel book for details.  Turned out that I was across the street from the Nazi building where all the horrible ideas and plans of Hitler's regime were created.  I had to turn away, and find my U-bahn fast.  I feel sorry for the Berliners and the reminders of their hideous past everywhere they turn.  However, this is not how I want to spend my vaca...so off to the hotel I go to do some dance writing.

Only, right around the corner from my nice quiet hotel is a sign that says Hofenfest (Portfest or Marinafest according to google translator)!!  There were booths and tents set up all around the marina and all of the old fishing boats were on display, some even serving food and drink.  I decided to put off writing to enjoy some good ol' Brotwurst and Kirsch Bier (cherry beer...not too sweet!) I listened to a German band play the traditional German tunes.  I watched an old-fashioned Berlin boat contest on the river.  Then suddenly...micro burst!! It was a down poor like I haven't experienced since I lived in AZ.  One moment everyone is laughing and applauding, the next moment soaked to the bone!  Too bad I hadn't put my trench coat on yet.  My umbrella worked fine except for when the wind flipped it upside down.

I got dry and then got ready to see a 4pm performance (not amazing but interesting) and then a 7pm performance at a dance space that I am in total awe of.  This is a space dedicated only to dance. Sasha Waltz found an old factory building and made it new with dance studios, performance spaces, and pre/post-performance socializing.  Audiences enjoy gorgeous views of the river while they sip on beer or wine preparing themselves for the show.  This kind of space would be my dream!  I saw William Forsythe tonight and I will say without any doubt that this was the most amazing performance I have ever seen.  He is from the US, but has his company in Frankfurt. He is a dance legend already, but I certainly didn't expect this.  The piece is called "Human Writes", if you've seen it you may know what I mean.  I was stunned and deeply moved by this performance and again have found more support for my thesis ideas.  

On my way home wearing my new Trench, I stopped by the Hefenfest again (some very drunk Germans by 9pm) and had another German dish which I don't know the name of since I just pointed to it and said "Das".  What a nice little event and what great timing for me!

Hope all is well and take good care of our Rosie!!

Much love,

Alicia

Berlin Day 6 - 8/29...a day of rest?

hmmmm...not really.

The day started out quite academic.  I rushed myself to a lecture at 11am on "the state of human rights".  I won't bore you with the details, but all that thinking made me tired, so by 2pm I was back in my bed resting my eyes.  I browsed around in my travel books to construct a plan of Berlin for Marc's three days here (an impossible task, I'm afraid) and I came across "what to do in Berlin on a Sunday."  Why hadn't I seen this before!  There is a Flea Market every Sunday til 5pm in an area which I hadn't yet explored, Prenzlauar Berg.  I looked at the clock; it was 3:30.  I leapt out of bed, put on my tennies, grabbed my bag and was off.

Many of you have traveled and seen flea markets, but I never have.  Arts and crafts fairs...yes.  Saturday farmers market...yes.  Garage sales...yes.  But this was an entire block that fused all three experiences into one (and when I say block I mean a mile of tents, four rows deep).  I saw really cute handmade jewelry and clothes.  I saw food tents selling tastes from all cultures.  But mostly, I saw alot of people's junk.  Piles of clothes, used tools, housewares, but my favorite were the old pictures.  Amazing pictures from many decades past in photo albums for sale!  If I'd found one with pictures of Berlin, I would have bought it.

As I was leaving the flea market (a few euros lighter) I marveled at the park across the street.  This neighborhood is really the most livable that I've seen here in Berlin.  Everyone was out enjoying themselves with their friends and family.  New parents walked around with strollers, an old wizardly-looking man created huge bubbles for the children to play with, one group of friends had a pillow fight (thats right), and of course people drank their beers and chatted on park benches.  I heard applause coming from a distance and wondered if there was a concert.  It sounded like a large group of people, so I followed the sound and came upon an outdoor amphitheater filled with at least 1000 people (possibly 2000).  I was anxious to find out what band they were watching, but as I looked onstage I realized this wasn't a band at all...it was karaoke!!!!!

OMG!!  Of all the performances that I've seen this week, this was the most fun.  Not artful in any way, but I haven't laughed out loud like that since I've been here.    I heard a man sing "My Way" in a choppy German accent,  a Norwegian man sing a Beyonce hit (that was hilarious), a Brazilian man sing "American Woman" (I was dying of laughter), and finally an Italian girl sang "We are the World" (How appropriate and cohesive...I nearly shed a tear).  It was lovely! 

I later saw a dance performance reminding me that not all dance is great...but I did enjoy the outfit that I wore to the show, I felt very fashionably European.  I also thought I'd mention that I've stopped trying to speak any German except to say "Danke".  Life works much better this way.

Much love,

Alicia

Berlin Day 7 - 8/30

Hallo!

I finally had a more restful day.  At least no strange surprises and no time commitments.  The weekend was fun, but its Monday and all the business travelers have come to town, all the kids have gone back to school, so I should somehow get to work (Hmmm, not yet!).  

I spent most of my day back in Prenzlauar Berg.  I only got a glimpse from yesterday's adventure, and according to my books this part of town has been completely revitalized in the last 10 years.  I started my day with a big breakfast at a Russian Cafe (mostly cheeses).  Then I wandered lazily through the streets and shops.  It is the perfect 30 + neighborhood with cute garden and decor shops, little clothing boutiques, lots of kids stores, cafes, parks, and restaurants all over these tree lined streets.  If I were to have my fourth house in Berlin (after SD, Phx, and NYC), it would be in this area. 

When I was through meandering, I decided to go to the East Side Gallery (aka - the Berlin Wall).  WOW!!  I was stunned by the severity and hopefulness that exist on this wall at the same time.  Even though Berlin has so many reminders of their unstable past, they have a sense of optimism that is based in their own reality.  I am so moved by it.  I sort of thought I'd come here and find many grumpy people, but it seems opposite.  It seems like their history makes it more urgent for the people to create the lives that they want. That is why the arts are booming here.  And that is why I love Prenzlauar Berg.  It was once in East Berlin and I just get the vibe that these people are taking their lives into their own hands now and rebuilding.  

I almost took the night off of dance, but then at the last minute thought I may as well try to get tickets to the sold out show...and I did!  It was a program that supported new artist on the scene.  And the dance "scene" was there, by the way.  Dancers who only days earlier performed naked on stage in front of me, sat next to me covered up in their scarves and coats.  They seemed like mini-celebs.

Marc will be getting here in 33 hours (not that I'm counting)!!!  We then leave Saturday morning for Greece.  It seems like a world away considering the rain, cold, and urban culture of Berlin, but it will be exciting and luxurious.  

I miss you all.

Love,

A

Berlin Day 8 - 8/31

Guten Tag!

I had a very boring day (writing about dance which to me was very fun and interesting).  I sat in my room until 3pm when I had scheduled lunch with a few dancers from here in Berlin who have worked with some of the same people that I have.  Its nice to see that Berlin dancers face the same issues and have the same excitements about dance that we do in the US.  Somehow each side (european vs. american) has a fantasized vision of the other.  

What I look like walking around Berlin

Then I saw a dance installation piece and finally a great solo performance in a beautiful old theatre with two balconies.  Not a huge theatre but very tall.  I then met up with a couple who I knew from San Diego when I first moved there and they now live in Berlin and make work here.  Don't worry, I don't have any big ideas...

I'm afraid that these lengthy emails of mine may be coming to an end.  I will try to make it to the computer if I can, but with a real live person to talk with, I'm not so sure it will be all that easy.  There will be new experiences and some repeats, and I cannot wait to share them with Marc!  Hooray!!  He gets in tomorrow morning. (or midnight your time!)

Love you all,

Alicia 

Berlin Day 9/10 - Sept. 1/2

I've missed you all!!  It seems that I LOVE sharing these experiences with all of you so I will catch you up on the last couple of days.

Marc is a bit jet-lagged unfortunately.  He got in yesterday at 11am and decided that it was a good idea to nap before we go out.  So by noon we napped...and then I got up at 2...and he napped...he usually hears me when I'm doing things, but he kept sleeping...I meditated...I organized all of my dance paperwork...I curled my hair...I finally forced him out of bed at 4pm.  Maybe it was too long to sleep, but he would not wake up!!

So then we started exploring in the area near our hotel and went up to the top of the TV tower.  What an amazing view of all of Berlin and beyond.  It was really cool for me to see the city laid out in front of me after my week of wandering around everywhere with a map in my hand (and now in my head).  Thats where we met our new friends.  They are the first Americans I've met and they just happened to be from California!  (San Fran)  We got to talking and one thing led to another and we found ourselves at dinner together having a great time.  And then we all decided to go somewhere for one more German beer.  As the real Berliner of the group (wink, wink) I knew exactly where we should go.  We didn't get back to our room until 3am!  Crazy!!!!

Well, that meant that our day started super late this morning (Marc is really slowing down my momentum), but we were able to see a few essential sights and Marc rode the U-Bahn for the first time.  He loves the old architecture, so we are going to start the day early tomorrow (out by 9:30 at the latest) and head to the Pergamon Museum where they supposedly have a huge arch from Babylon.   I will tell you all about it tomorrow!

We went to two performances this evening and then I had "knuckle of pork" from another old German restaurant (my stomach's not doing so well now, though...bummer).

We love you all very much,

Alicia and Marc

Berlin Day 11 - 9/3

I miss you all.  It's been several days and a long journey from Berlin to Ithaca.  Not necessarily in distance, but more of a time (culture/weather/energy) warp.  Before we get to that, I must bring you up to speed on our last day in Berlin.

Thankfully, we are both able to get up and out the door by 10am!!  Victory!!  We head straight for the Pergamon Museum and are transported back into time 2,500 years.  But it isn't just knick-knacks from the ancient Grecians, Romans, and Babylonians; there are huge two story fronts of palaces and marketplaces...reconstructed so that you feel like you are actually there.  Really interesting, a sneak peak at what is to come for us.  

We then take an hour boat ride along the Spree which takes us past so many of the buildings I'd seen in the past week.  It is kind of irritating, though, because we sit right in front of the speaker spouting out the historical Information in the German language, while we hold a low volume hand-held radio up our ears to hear the English version.  The boat drops us off near Tiergarten (remember, this is "Central Park").  Promptly, (Its 1:30pm by now) I open my book to the beer garden section and we find a favorite (though its obvious that the season's over because there are hundreds of picnic tables and about 20 people).  The waiter instructs us to get the white sausage and wheat beer.  We listen...Delicious!!!!

Happily refreshed (and yes according to the Germans: hydrated...someone ought to tell them...) we continue a walk through a new section of Tiergarten (I get to use the little bit of German I know when a kid loses his ball over a school fence and Marc throws it back...kid says, "Danke Shon" and I say, "Bitte Shon"!!!  Very exciting).  We stroll leisurely though the park (well, sort of.  We're on a time schedule here. people!) and head to a second beer garden that is in the middle of the park (beautiful...I wished that I had time to go there and write!). We have our second beer for the day and head home.  Dinner and a dance performance (this one was VERY Berlin experimental!) and our day is done...

When we leave the next morning, I'm really not too sad...but I think it was either because I tried not to think about it or because I know I'll be back.  I wasn't quite ready to leave...there was still so much of BEING there that I enjoyed...but onto the next adventure...Greece!!

To be continued...

Love,

Alicia (and Marc)

Greece (a summary)

Many apologies for my delinquencies with these emails...we have been on a tight schedule and between sleeping in, breakfast, mid-morning kaffe, boating, lunch, nap, and late night dinner there has been no time to write.  Plus, we just figured out the converter thing here, so the computer now has juice...So please, forgive me. (hee-hee)  I will try to recap the last 4 days as easily as I can...

After our short (3 hour) airplane ride to Athens, we were warmly received by Mary and Michael at the airport and whisked off on a long winding car ride to Delphi.  I surprisingly didn't get carsick (mind over matter) on those narrow, curving roads...but I did start to wonder if I'd made a mistake leaving the slower pace of Berlin (everything is relative) for this fast paced roller-coaster ride that was my first three hours of Greece.  Then we arrived in Delphi, and I started warming up to this place.  We had the ruins to ourselves - no tourist, no buses, (plus we brought that Germany weather with us on that first day so...) no heat!  We saw what was said to be the belly button of the universe but when I looked out at the view, I could see why this place was so special.

We then got back into the car for another 3 hours of winding roads and thanks to our Greek driver Michael we were just fine.  We spent a night in Patros at a cute hotel they frequent called Art Hotel (isn't that funny, in Berlin I stayed at the Art'otel - no relation).  Woke up to a lovely breakfast, a short tour around the town (a port town that reminds me a bit of Mexico - still not sure I like Greece yet), and by noon we boarded the ferry for Ithaca.  After 4 hour boat ride, we arrive in Vathi!!  Okay - now I get it.

This place is beautiful.  It is a small (but not too small) fishing village tucked into a large natural harbor.  Tan and blue box houses with colorful shutters and red rooftops sit side by side along the bay front and up the mountain looking out onto the Mediterranean.  They look as though each has its own personality and might sing a tune to me!  We are staying in a house that sits on the water and in fact I am writing you from our private living room listening to the soft ripples of the water splash and kiss the row boat out front.  

I won't bore you too much with our daily activities...but we have been to what is thought to be the Palace of Odysseus, shopping in the village, on two boat trips to remote locations, and out for many great dinners.  We even decided at 12:30 in the morning to walk 10 houses down to the restaurant/bar for some ice cream.  So, I have officially settled into island time. Though, I wouldn't say this island is slow paced...people rush everywhere, and we just wonder, "where could they possibly be going in such a hurry!" - my thought: these Greeks walk a fine line between relaxation and anxiety.  The men walk around carrying 'worry beads' which look an awful lot like meditation beads.  As they stroll along the water, they are constantly playing with them...I could show them how to use them more efficiently!

I will stick to relaxation - after all, I am a tourist.

Much love,

Alicia and Marc

Home Sweet Home

We are finally back in San Diego and happily comfy on our couch and washing two suitcases worth of dirty clothes.  Our trip was wonderful and did exactly what we had intended.  I am fresh with creative ideas and we are both rested and ready to return to work and school with new enthusiasm.  

Our last day in Greece was perfect.  We were on the boat  by 11am and headed on our way across the water to the island of Scorpios (Onassis's private island!) where we parked the boat in a small harbor and relaxed.  I pulled out "my" raft and soaked up some rays with a glass of wine in my hand.  Yes, I could get used to this!  However, we had some massive waves on our way back and all of us were soaked!!  We sure needed a nap that evening! 

THE Boat

Another young couple joined us on the boat this last day (the owners of the crepe place down the street) and they were absolutely delightful.  I noticed that she kept on saying "Neh" while nodding her head.  It sounded like she was saying "nah" like "No", but I finally realized that "Neh" means "yes" in Greek.  So if you hear a couple of Greeks speaking their language and they sound like they are arguing (they are loud and speak over each other) - most likely they are in complete agreement!  

We had dinner that night on the top of Ithaca where you could see both sides of the island.  It was beautiful and a great last dinner.  Then we woke up at 6am (remember that we haven't woken up before 9am for a very long time) to get on the ferry to the mainland.  We watched the sunrise over the mediterranean and THAT was gorgeous.  

The rest of our Greek experience for the next 24 hours reminded us why people visit the islands more than the mainland.  It also changes the words I'd originally used to describe the lifestyle.  "Relaxation and anxiety" give purpose to the rush and calm of the islands, but the real words should be "lazy and pushy".  I couldn't believe how people clustered at the ferry door to get out first.  Not sure why, but just when you thought there was no more room to fit another person on the stairs, someone would push right by...for some reason they were more important than we were.  Needless to say, we became exhausted by this attitude and are relieved to be through with the boats, buses, and planes that it took to get home.  

Thanks for reading and for all your great responses.

Much love,

Alicia (and Marc)