Prague - Performance!!

Hello e-travelers - 

This has been my last day here in Prague and by far the most important!

The performance went beautifully!  We arrived at noon to set up for our show at 3pm.  Unfortunately, the tech people seemed quite distracted and bit annoyed with our requests, but they vowed to do everything we asked.  I was a bit nervous about this.  I needed the stage cleared after the performance before ours and I wasn't sure if the scary looking, long haired guy who was constantly helping everyone else (except us) actually understood our requests.  Then we met the man in charge - Steve Brown - who is supposedly a very important man in Sound design in England.  He finally made us feel like we were welcomed and appreciated.  

We watched the two performances before ours which were purely music.  They attracted a fantastic audience.  Then we took the stage!  Everything went flawlessly.  Its a small enough venue that I could see the audience well.  And I could see their wonder and delight.  Some confusion - but mostly delight!!  Even the scary looking guy was smiling the whole time and came up to us afterward to say "great job".  We got a lot of great praise.  People asking Omar about his live sound design program.  People telling me about the journey I took them on with my performance.  And Steve Brown called it "brilliant" and was so happy to have such a performative piece in the mix.  It felt really great!!

Then everyone split and went to their next things...hmmm...well, I guess that's over.  That's the problem with dance.  One moment it is here and the next moment its gone.  That's why I love rehearsal so much, rehearsal is there for me on an ongoing basis.  Performance is grande but rehearsal is what fulfills me.  However, Steve Brown did invite us to go out to dinner with all of the sound design people that night and that really pleased Omar!  

My plan after that was to watch a performance at 4:30, head back to the room and shower (I was soooo sweaty - this has been the hottest and most humid day here so far especially after dancing!) and then meet them back at the theatre to walk to dinner.  So I went to the performance which was really creepy and then I walked back to my hotel.  I got completely ready and then a major thunderstorm hit.  Well - I decided that maybe I should just let Omar take care of this networking and that maybe it was time for me to end my trip.  So I went to restaurant here at the hotel and even though they had run out of half the things on the menu, I stayed there and ordered what I could.  I needed that food.  Out of my nervousness, I hadn't eaten since breakfast.  BTW - while I was sitting in the restaurant the Beach Boy song "I wanna go home" came on.  

So here I am...packing up.  Looking forward to returning home to San Diego and Marc and Rosie.  Prague is a beautiful place with a dance scene that is clearly growing.  Writing all of you about my adventures is so much fun for me - it keeps me from feeling lonely.  Reminder though - Prague is not a place to journey to alone if you can help it.  Maybe New York, Berlin, or London...but not Prague!  This is a place for lovers or groups of young party-goers.  Its also a place for performance artists when these big festivals are here.  

Thanks for coming with me on this journey.

I love you all,

Alicia

Prague - Day 6

Hi All,

Today was a day of festivals and friends here in Prague.  No more wandering the cobblestone streets and narrow roads alone, my UCSD design gang is here!

Truly, this (Prague Quadrennial) is a design festival to showcase designers...there are some performances, but mostly exhibitions.  Honestly, its really not my scene.  I will admit whole-heartedly to being a dance geek.  My love for good contemporary concert dance is almost childlike at times.  And this is how everyone at this festival feels about their area of theatre design.  Almost to a point where performance seemed secondary...and it sort of is in this environment.

So after lunch with my colleagues, some of us went to the theatre to watch a performance in the Sound Kitchen series (our series) which looked like it might be similar to ours.  It wasn't.  It wasn't even close.  They were playing with some new technology that controls sound through movement, but there was nothing artistic or theatrical about it.  After seeing this, I feel even more convinced that I am making really good work.  They (the European performance world) can be a bit snobbish to us American performers, but we've got something really great to share and I'm looking forward to it.

The best part of the day is when I dragged my friends Alina (costume and scenic designer) and Omar (lighting and sound designer) to a dance performance at MY festival (you know, the dance festival that is happening simultaneously).  They were floored by the piece.  It was an incredible duet by two men that was detailed and specific and smart.  These performers changed the space into a square - framed by wooden walls - where we, the audience, sat above them looking into the stage.  My friends could hardly contain themselves when the piece was over.  After looking at extreme scenic design for the last 24 hours, they were moved by the simplicity of this piece and the quality of the performers.  My friends were so excited about dance in that moment and we all decided we are going to make something incredible together.

Then we went to a fancy French Restaurant and had dinner and some lovely red wine.  It was soooo relaxing as we sat on the terrace and watch the sky slowly change colors.  We sat down at 8pm and didn't get up to leave until 11pm.  Ahhhh...  And now I am tired and ready for bed.  

Wish me "merde" for tomorrow's performance!

Much Love,

Alicia

Prague - Day 5

Dobry Den!

Is it already day 5?  Isn't that how it goes?  At first it seemed like such a long time to be in Prague by myself, but now I'm getting a little sad that it is only two more days.  I've finally gotten a hold on this place.  Prague's beauty and history have been consuming me these last few days, but that is not where my deep interests lie.  It may not surprise you all that I am most interested in "now".  Well, I think I finally got out of the tourist bubble (which Prague does a fabulous job of creating) and have a better view of this entire experience.

Starting with the view from the Mandarin Oriental!  Only shortly after I booked my ticket to Prague and Mom was worrying about me big time, a beautiful tall dark haired angel entered her travel agency to tell her all about this five star hotel in Prague.  She and Mom connected immediately...changing Mom's view of this entire situation (only after learning that the original hotel Mom had booked for me was at the center of Prague's late night party scene and has a stripper pole in the bar downstairs - naturally, we found another hotel for me - Hotel Julian - known for its quiet oasisness and library on the first floor - this is more MY scene, I'm afraid)  Happily, due to this meeting of Mom and Gabriela, I was able to connect with someone who lives in Prague.  And today she brought me to lunch at her hotel!  I had to pretend I was Mom (a travel agent from Scottsdale) for a moment for the GM, but that was fine.  The food was amazing and though they have traditional Czech food, I ordered (as recommended by Gabriela) from the asian selection.  Yummy!!!!!  And I enjoyed a Czech wine which she was excited to have me try since I live inCalifornia.  It was very good - for a white wine.  

We talked alot - I learned a little about life before the iron curtain came down (life in communism) when she was just a young girl and mostly I learned about her life here in Prague 'now' and what she admires about the U.S.  It was really nice.  And I was so happy to speak out loud!!!!!!!  I can't express enough how important this has been for both of my trips outside the U.S.  I start to feel a bit isolated.  Not that I can't order or ask for things.  That is easy, almost everyone speaks English or at least body language and pointing helps. But the opportunity to talk and really talk for a couple of hours is so valuable.  Not just type...physically talk. (I told Marc that I've noticed the voice in my head is developing a Czech accent!)

Gabriela then took me on a private tour of the hotel and took my picture standing on the large terrace of the presidential suite which arguably has the best view of the Prague castle in the entire city.  AMAZING!!  The hotel itself is an old monastery that was renovated about 6 years ago.  It is done just perfectly with the charm and structure of the old (even some parts where the really old - 1320 - can be seen through glass walls or floors) but with modern aesthetics.  They have the only "proper" - to quote Gabriela - spa in the city which is housed in the old church and maintains a spiritual and calming presence.  Many locals frown upon the hotel for renovating a historical site (everything here is a historic site!), but I say halaluyah!!   

By now, my colleagues are starting to show up for the festival, so I ate dinner with my collaborator Omar Ramos.  I suggested a place that I've passed in Old Town both times I got lost.  I think it appealed to me because it wasn't like everything else.  It wasn't a cavernous pub or a romantic street cafe, but looked more like a place I might enjoy in San Francisco.  And it was!   It was a wine and cheese restaurant.  Perfect...neither of us were terribly hungry (stuffed from my curry dish at MO) but we wanted to catch up.  It was great wine and great cheese and again, it was nice to talk.  And this time to an American with similar interests.  Phew.  That hour went by fast and then I had to rush off to see my show.

Now this is where I have to take back what I said last night.  As I emerge from my tourist bubble, I can recognize that this festival actually does have something big going on.  They know what they're doing and bringing in fantastic dance artists from all over the world.  I saw one of the most incredible dancers in the world this evening - Louise Lecavalier of La La La Human Steps in Canada.  She is absolutely incredible.  Her physicality was so strong and yet she entered into it so easily and non-chalently, almost like walking.  A skill I am constantly working on.  How do I keep my performing self alive/here/now while dancing choreographed movements?  She does it well.  And she is 53.  Wow...she dances with the wisdom of a 53 year old mixed with the body and movement quality of a 23 year old - amazing.

I left the theatre totally satisfied by her performance...

Until tomorrow,

Alicia

Prague - Day 4

Hello All,

I'm in early tonight.  I had a ticket reserved for me (hadn't paid yet) that I was to pick up on Friday for a show tonight, but when the woman in the box office spoke no English and gave me major attitude, I took that as a sign.  So instead I participated for the first time in the PQ (Prague Quadrennial of performance design and space) and went to a lecture about digital sound/music and performance given by a guy from Boston's MITMedia Lab.  His many inventions and concepts were incredible (two of his students created Guitar Hero and Rock Band!) but then he presented an opera that he created with humans and robots.  Hmmmm...I'm not buying it.  This guy has such brilliant ideas, but put into opera/narrative form, it just turned lame.  Imagine Star Wars as an opera instead of a movie...only with a lame story line.  

I don't mean to be such a performance snob, its just that last year I saw some of the most incredible work I've ever seen...in Berlin.

That's what I've been doing this entire trip.  Comparing the two.  And that's not really fair.  Berlin is a thriving metropolis where innovative artists in all fields go to live and make work for an audience with a hunger for intelligent new work and last year I was in town specifically for their big dance festival (which was far bigger than Prague's and could afford to bring in really big names!)  Clearly, I connected with it.  Prague, as I've said, thrives on tradition.  Which means that their arts (down to their architecture) is traditional.  Tourists buy tickets to the traditional operas and the ballets.  Luckily, though, anywhere the arts live, so do the contemporary arts, they just don't seem to play as large of a role as I'd hoped.  

But this makes me all the more pumped to present my work!  I realize how lucky I am to have had the influences I have at UCSD and in San Diegoin general to move me forward towards what interests me.  I have a feeling the sound designers here are going to be blown away by my collaborator as he performs and mixes my voice in real-time using fancy computer software.  All very cool.

The only new thing I did today was wander through a few parks.  One giant park and one small garden.  As if I haven't already walked enough, I found a "walk" in one of my Prague books that starts at the west corner of a large park called Petrin.  It just happens to be right outside my hotel.  So, I thought, Why not.  That must have been the worst map/guide I've ever used (I am a little bummed that I didn't get the travel guide by Frommer's call: Frommer's Day by Day Prague.  I used that pocket guide in Berlin and went on all kinds of great walks - see there I go again comparing).  Anyways, I didn't manage to see the summit of this hill where they have built what was meant to look like a smaller version of theEiffel Tower.  Really its just a TV tower meant to jumble the German's TV signals.  I'm okay with not getting a close up on that.  Plus it was chilly and raining.  I then made my way to another small park where to my surprise wandered Peacocks.  All around!  I was in shock.  This walled garden and all these peacocks sitting up on a gazebo.  I got pictures.

I did eat at a great restaurant called Cafe Savoy.  I was very please with my meal, but even more pleased with the caramel cream puff I ordered for desert with a glass of champagne.  Don't worry, the food may look bland but if you like meat and potatoes like I do - you're in good shape.  Oh, and I realize why the city is so clean despite every reason for it not to be - they have a large number of employees working in waste management.  Around the clock, I see workers dressed in orange and green jumpsuits cleaning up trash cans, sweeping streets...its nuts, but it sure does work!  This city is super clean and like I said, smells glorious.

Much love,

Alicia

Prague - Day 3

Ahoj! Again...I had a great day here in Bohemia.  That's right, this is Bohemia.  It makes me want to sing "La Vie Boheme" from the musical RENT.

I've determined that Prague seems to be a haven for visitors.  Its history and tradition attract tourists from all over Europe (plus, its the beginning of peak tourist season).  And they are serving up "history" all over town.  I'm sure there is more to know about Prague (Its kind of like assuming that Scottsdale is all cowboys), but most of what I'm seeing is tradition (and amazing views) so I've decided to go with it.

And just because this city is old, doesn't mean it is run-down.  No sir.  They keep these buildings painted perfectly and in the most beautiful colors.  The city of Prague is appealing to my senses in ways that I didn't expect.  It smells like Peonies everywhere I go (and yet I see no blooms). It sounds like silence (no cars or trams can fit in many of the old roads).  It looks like a child's drawing of a town so crammed and colorful that it couldn't be real.  (Its tastes are a bit lacking, I'm afraid.)

Today, I headed out to explore my side of the river.  This city is divided into many different parts:  The Old Town and New Town (which is still old, just not as old) are on the east side of the river and considered the city center.  The west side of the river is where the castle and the "little quarter" are located.  I'm just south of "little quarter".  So...I decided to explore "little quarter".  And when I walked outside, it started raining.  But only lightly.  This was a welcomed change, I'm not sure how long I could walk around this town in the humid heat. 

There is a reason that the Prague Castle is #1 on every list of top ten things to see in Prague.  Its beautiful.  Super old (1230 at its earliest) and beautiful (BTW - I saw another bride).  What I like most, though, were the Castle gardens!!  They were like a little escape...like the Secret Garden!   I think I walked through what used to be the mote, but now is a green valley that runs all along the outside of the castle.  The truth is, I hadn't actually planned to go to the castle today.  I was originally heading to the Museum of Miniatures and I finally found it!  There I got the chance to see a flea wearing two golden horseshoes while holding scissors, a key, and a lock.  Literally...I saw it with my own eyes (under a microscope).  I can't even find the fleas that bug Rosie, let alone design shoes for one!  How in the heck?...(more like, "why in the heck...?")  There also was a piece of human hair with the lords prayer typed on it.  That must have been a tiny type-writer. (sorry, bad joke)

The great thing was that this museum was at the top of a hill, and as I started to walk down...I saw the view!  WOW!!  INCREDIBLE!!  This was the spot.  I found a great restaurant/cafe and decided to sit for an hour and have a late lunch.  I had a Kir Royal (my favorite) and pasta (salty) but couldn't get my eyes off the view.  Until a group of Americans came to the patio just below us on their Segways.  What!!  Even I was a bit embarrassed for them.  While I thought for a moment that it would be nice to get off my feet for a bit, I wouldn't be caught dead in those hats they were wearing.  Plus, we were pretty high up - one wrong move and...

When I finished I strolled through the quant little medieval village and was thoroughly charmed.  They say Mozart and other composers/writers have been charmed by these streets.  I see why.  Though I became curious when I saw kids (18 years old, I suppose) eating dark green ice cream.  Whoah.  That was Absinth Ice Cream!  I guess I'm in Prague.  I wonder if Mozart found his muse in absinth?  La Vie Boheme.  (I decided not to try it this time, though)

FInally, I went to the theatre and saw a new play.  I thought is was fun, but I don't feel inspired to write anything more about it except - when in doubt, add a live piglet to the act.  Everyone loves a cute little pig running around on stage.  

Much love,

Alicia

Prague - Days 1 and 2

Ahoj!!

That is just one of the many ways to say hello in Czech!  (Though, I just learned that on google, so clearly it hasn't set me back)  I've been here inPrague for two days now and haven't even tried to learn "please" and "thank you".  That is just one of the many things that is different from last year's journey to Berlin, Germany.  Another huge difference is that instead of just seeing performances...this year (for those of you who don't already know) I am performing in the Prague Quadrennial festival of theatre and dance design!  A solo that I made on myself with a sound designer was chosen to perform at the New Stage of the National Theatre!  I also got lucky and it just so happens to be the "Tanec Praha" (Dance Prague) a festival of contemporary dance and movement theatre.  So I am seeing performances daily and then on my last full day here, I perform!

So...let me recap my last couple of days...

#1 - I am here alone (and I REALLY miss Marc...this city is cozy and romantic...not your typical metropolis)

#2 - I am currently sitting in my room with a glass of white wine while the rest of the tourists in the city (young and old) are barely getting started

#3 - That is fine by me...(with the exception of wanting to have a candle-lit dinner at one of the restaurants in old town or on the river with Marc).

So...from the top...

Thursday 16.6 

I got here at 9:30am on Thursday after a long day of flying and I may have slept 20 minutes.  Thankfully when I got to my hotel they had my room ready and so I did what you aren't supposed to do.  I slept.  I slept from 10:30am - 3pm and I am so happy that I did.  Don't let anyone tell you otherwise when you travel over 9 time zones!  I got up and got ready to head to my first performance which I knew from studying the maps was across town...AND THE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION WAS ON STRIKE.  (Yes, I did mean to yell)  So, dressed in my tennies, jeans, and a tank top...I ventured into the unknown.  Actually, I'm terrific with directions (runs in the family) so I honestly knew exactly where I was going and exactly how to get there.  45 minutes later...I arrive at my destination.  That's not bad for traveling clear across a city.  Its taken me 30 minutes to trek from one side of UCSD to the other.  Problem was that their 77 degrees is alot hotter that San Diego's 77 degrees.  I was sweating.  Luckily, they have malls in Prague and as I learned in Berlin...H&M's run ramp-id in European cities.  I bought myself a new pair of shorts...did I mention that I didn't pack even one pair of shorts.  Ooops.  

I was really looking forward to this first performance.  They called it European Dance Laboratory. Ironically, the two performances in this show were from Prague and Berlin.  I wasn't crazy about the local dance.  It had won some local awards, which makes me wonder about the dance community here. (I could get over this, considering the diversity in dance in the U.S.)  But the second dance (which actually was showing in Berlin when I was there - so many shows, so little time) was worth the wait.  It was absolutely delightful on so many levels.  Words for this dance: Delightful, generous, smart, satisfying, vulnerable, actual, considered, considerate, everything.

Then I walked all the way back to my hotel...luckily the rest of the city was walking too.  

Friday 17.6

Not the best sleep, but when I woke up at 9:30am (having fallen back to sleep at 5:30am) I felt a bit better.  Thank goodness for the tram system, my feet could not have made it much farther.  I went to a dance performance for kids, which reminded me a little of one of my favorite classes at UCSD called Crossing Boundaries; Improvisation and Technology.  Apparently this stuff appeals to kids and grown-ups.  Fun!!  (Go Blue Bike!!)

I then walked to Old Town Square and enjoyed the little gourmet festival they had going on with wine tastings and Hungarian Goulash.  I saw a bride and her groom standing at the edge of the square.  In this medieval village with castles and walls, she looked a like a little girl playing dress up.  I took a picture!!  

After eating a traditional Czech meal of Pork Belly, saurkraut, and dumplings (all the food on the plate was beige! - I feel so healthy) I headed to the last performance of the day.  This was another local group performing a piece inspired by a train station used by Hitler (when he invaded Prague) in the Holocaust...it was a well-made, subtle, moving dance.  Its tough to make a dance theatre piece about an huge emotional topic without getting overly dramatic, but this piece pulled it off with just the right timing.  Some harsh images sparsely placed went a long way...I'm sure there is much more to say about this but I'll stop there.

And after actually getting a little lost in Old Town's tiny streets (what happened to my good sense of direction?), I took a tram back and am now sitting here at the Hotel Julian in my room writing you.  This is more than I like to read in one email, so I will stop there. For those of you who want more about the dancing...I will write and post to my blog soon.  

Seven days here...two down, 5 more to go...this could get interesting!

Much love and gratitude,

Alicia 

ps - I may turn this into a blog in the morning...will pass it on again for your picture enjoyment!!